The times we stopped for a break, I snapped away...

some random non bike shots...

Maputu

Makanetta Islands

Finally, back at HQ

We arrived at Louis and Elsabe's place (HQ) in Rand around 16:00 today - flea-bitten, stung by mozzies and very, very tired; but in good spirits.The trip was a success, because we all made it back safely, apart from a few bruised knees - mostly Hennie's - thanks to the Van Zyl Vastrap. This intricate dance involves the rider opening the throttle while braking the front wheel. Well, that's the theory.

We spent the previous night at the slightly grimey Old Vic backpackers after making an easy transit through Ressano Garcia border post. Oh yes, we had to brush off the helpers first - guys who assist you through the simple process of crossing the border - useful, I suppose, if you're not very smart or maybe in a hurry and you don't know where to go first.

We thought we might make it to HQ, but we weren't keen on another bout of night riding after the previous night's dangerous journey from Inhambane to Xai-Xai. Imagine road works, potholes the size of Gauteng, and gentle rain that turn your helmet's visor into a kaleidoscope.

Mieke took a few shots! Thanks, Mieke you rock!

Kosi Bay

Mieke with kids on Macaneta Island.

FUN!

a word from the photographer

I left the rest of the crew in Xai Xai on Wednesday after having an amazing meal at one of the local restaurants, I travelled to Maputo and arrived just after 8PM and slept at a backpackers (it was filled with mad European beer drinkers).
4:30AM the next morning I geared my bike up and loaded the Komatiepoort border post on my GPS, it loaded and off I went, the very next road the GPS told me to turn right (straight into a one way) and there they were, the cops the bribing corrupt cops, they stopped me and informed me I'm traveling in a one way and how very very very wrong this is. I calmly told them I'm very sorry and to write me a fine so that I can pay it immediatly at a local police station, they said no, I must pay them 1200 meticias right now. I told them that won't be possible as I don't have any cash on me, he said "OK, so just give me 100 meticais and you can go." Right there I thought mmm this bribe could be my ticket out of here, this is when the other cop said "no man there are two of us, you have to give us 100 meticias each".
I said no problem, lead me to the closest ATM and I will get you the cash, I started my bike and just rode off and waved!
I went trought the border post no problem and arrived in JHB at 4PM.
My trip is over. How was the trip? Totaly amazing, insane, hard, hot, a huge learning curve on a bike. I will let my pictures do the rest of the talking.
New pictures will be loaded soon.

Cheers!

Desmond

things happen fast

Overlooking Barra beach near Inhambane. Quite a novelty, this lazing on the beach business. So far this trip is more of an endurance race than anything remotely like a holiday. The reason? Soft, thick sand. Whenever you venture off tar near the coast the going doesn't get tough. It gets near impossible. Reducing the bikes' tyre pressure helps, but going too low will mean the rims spin inside the tyres, tearing the tubes. So we never made it to Morrumbene Lodge. After battling the sand monster for 2 hours, not knowing if we were on the right track, we turned back to the tar road. We rode back to Morrumbene and looked around for a place to stay. The town seemed asleep except for one 'gevrekte' bar and one security guard who recommended a place... that had already closed when we got there. The bar was next door and some of the patrons came out to offer advice. A little boy lead us to what once was a motel of sorts, but it was either closed for the night or out of business.

maputo

A gap in a lane of trees revealed a glorious Maputo. We paid R80 to get the 4 vehicles accross and the ticket officer decided to keep my R20 change because 'it was hot and he was thirsty'. I was too tired to care and in a hurry to get to Maputo and on to Macaneta. In Maputo Hennie got 2000 meticais from the Standard Bank auto teller and set of to find Mieke's favourite bakery, and fuel. We've hit rush hour, but soon enough we were on the coastal rd north to Macaneta via Marracuene.

more sand

I must have fallen over 4 times. And when I was going forward i had to use my legs to help the bike along and keep me upright. I was completely out of my depth. When I had burnt all my energy I asked Mike to take over while slumped into the seat next to Mieke. My clothes were soaked with sweat. My mates soldiered on while I enjoyed the aircon and the carrots and hard-boiled eggs Mieke had packed. I must have had 5 eggs that day while the others matched or bettered this.
At long last we reached the small ferry port of Catembe.

and then there was sand

Sondzela Backpackers was good, the roads in Swazi was good, the scenery was lovely and people friendly. We crossed the border and took the Sodwana gravel road to Kosi Bay. This road was great for fast dirt riding. We reached Mieke's place late afternoon and feasted on lasagne and Amarula. Left at 9 next morning and quickly reached the Mozambique border at Golela. Paid compulsory 3rd party insurance for Ranger and 3 bikes of R310.
Finally we were in Moz. But my excitement died a sudden death when i observed the 'road': a strip of sand about 20cm thick.

Day 1 and 2

In Randburg on Saturday morning.

Some preventative maintanance from Mike.

The KTM was thirstier than the other bikes, so we had to take some juice from the Kawasaki in order to reach the next fuel station.

The huts in Mlilwane at the Sondzela ('come closer') backpackers in Swaziland.

how we got away

It started as a simple idea: take 3 friends and 3 of the latest adventure bikes (and a bakkie) and ride from Jhb to Inhambane in Mozambique. But with work pressures we lost a prep day, subsequently only leaving Jozi yesterday at 13:00. Three hours later we were gunning for a backpackers in Swaziland that Hennie's friend, Mieke, told us about. I wasn't even sure that the border post would be still open, which would have compelled us to camp somewhere along the way. Road signs warned motorists and other road users not to stop because of a high incidence of crime.

We made it through the border post at Oshoek. But now Hennie was confused. Did Mieke mean take the third turn-off from the border post or from Mbabane (Swaziland's capital)? After driving back and forth on the MR3 (with its flowing curves that made riding a dream) we finally found our turn-off and got closer and closer to our destination and overnight spot in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Eat and drink

Pronutro, long-life milk, coffee, sugar, Game, rum (to ward off mosquitoes, obviously), eggs, salt, pepper, olive oil, biltong, digestive biscuits, rusks, salt & pepper, granola bars, Jungle bars, a few tins of greens.

Clothes and toiletries

Long-sleeved clothing for mosquito protection, sun hat, swimming gear, towel, balaclava, Buff/bandana, sunglasses, tekkies, underwear, socks, flip-flops, shorts, shirts, jacket/fleece.

Suntan lotion, after sun, mosquito repellant, wet-wipes.

More gear...

Fire extinguisher, axe, reflective tiangles, emergency food supply and H2O, hose clamps, rope, binoculars, camera, copies of all documents, chargers, bath plug, moisturiser, nail clippers, nail brush, ear plugs, shaving stuff, condoms, workman's gloves, music, notebook, pens, washing pegs, batteries, extra hoodies for gas lamp, duct tape, cable ties, kinetic strap, tyre pressure guage, tyre compressor, distilled water, extra bulbs, fuses, radiator net, scuba mask, flippers, spear gun.

Passports, vehicle documents, cash, bank cards.

Medical supplies

1. First aid kit: Bandages 75mm x 4,5m, Antiseptic solution (iodine, cetrimide), Burn gel, Elastoplast/Opsite, surgical tubing/gloves/swabs
2. Suturing kit: Lignocaine, syringes & needles, nylon sutures, scissors
3. IV Fluid giving set: 18g needles, 2l Ringers Lactate
4. Antibiotics: Co-amoxiclav, Ciprofloxacin, Metronidazole, Doxcycicline (anti malaria)
5.Others medication: Loperamide, Metaclopramide, Hyoscine butylbromide, Ibuprofen/diclofenac IM, Paracetamolcodeine, Cold & flu tabs
6. Chlorine tablets
7. Mosquito repellent
8. Rehydration fluid

Camping equipment

Cadac 7 & MSR hiking stove; Braai grill, pots (2) & pan, kettle; Egg holders; Small camping chairs and beach umbrella (if space permits); Tents (2); Water container 15l; Black bin bags; Tin foil; Fire lighters; Dish washing - soap, cloth; Camping lights; Aluminium table; Spade; Dust pan and brush;
Plastic ground sheet; Emergency blanket; Mosquito repellant and NETS; Wet wipes / baby wipes
Self: plate, mug, knife, spoon, fork; sleeping bag & mat, headlight (torch)

Spares, gear and luggage list

Gear: Boots, riding pants, riding jackets, gloves, kidney belts, helmets, knee pads, spare helmet visors, GPS, helmet cam and rider communication.

Tools: Tyre levers, screw drivers, wheel nut sockets, spark plug wrench, small socket set, tyre tube valve spanner, chain breaker, pliers, side cutter, water pump pliers and hand pump.

Spares: Slime, inflating canisters, spark plugs, light bulbs, oil, cable ties, chains, half links, master links, duct tape, hose clamps, chain wax, Q20, fuel bags, in-line fuel filters and shrink sleeves.

Luggage: Hard and soft boxes, packing racks, tank bags, tie-down straps, waterproof bags and tool bag. (depends on back-up vehicle)

Portuguese phrases

Here are just a few Portuguese phrases to help you:

• Good morning - Bom dia
• Good afternoon - Boa tarde
• Good evening - Boa noite
• Hello - Hola
• Goodbye - Até logo
• How much - Cuanto custa
• I am from - Eu sou de ...
• Thank-you - obrigado
• Excuse me - Faz favour
• Friend - Amigo
• How are you? - Como esta?
• I am fine - Muito bem obrigado
• Toilets - casa da banho
• We want to go to - Queremos ir a ...
• When - Quando
• Where - Onde
• House - casa
• Beer - cerveja
• Mineral water - agua mineral
• Bread - pao
• Chicken - frango
• Milk - leite
• Steak roll - prego
• Meat - carne
• Hot chips - batata frita
• Salad - salada
• How much? - Quanto custa?
• Too expensive - Muito caro
• I want to buy - Quero comprar...

(source: unknown)

Welkom-woord van die mechanic

Welkom almal. Dis wonderlik om hier te wees. Ek wil net die feeskomitee bedank vir die wonderlike geleentheid om my lewenslange vakansie te verleng. Weereens dankie.
Ek wil dan vra dat al die lede van ons uitstekende span 'n foto van hulle op die blog kan post.
Ek wil net laastens se dat ek mooi na julle wiele sal kyk!

Mike the bike

Ons wiele na Mosambiek / Wheels to Moz